COP25 and a Commitment to a Sustainable Fashion Industry
By Madeline Weir
Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action panel at COP25.
MADRID, SPAIN - One of the important private sector developments which took place during the United Nations Framework Convention for Climate Change - COP 25 was the continuation of the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action. On Tuesday, December 10th, there was a two hour panel and Q&A session with leaders from the various working groups. The premise of the charter is to move the fashion industry towards carbon neutrality and a sustainable future. Currently, the industry is responsible for an estimated 10% of greenhouse gas emissions according to UNFCCC. This week the charter committee leaders announced that 120 brands, including Puma, Adidas, Nike, The ESPRIT Group, and the H&M Group, have committed to being 100% carbon neutral by 2050.
If you think about the shirt you are currently wearing, you can probably imagine how much energy and labor it took to produce. There’s the collecting and processing of raw materials. Then, those materials must be transformed into threads which can be woven together into textiles. Workers sew the textiles into the shape or style you will finally purchase. The item must then be sold online or in a store. Some sort of transportation occurs between every step of this process. From production, to transportation, to retail, and the disposal of clothing, “the fashion industry uses more energy than the aviation and shipping industries combined.”[1] Although this is a simplified explanation of the process, it leads us to wonder about the ways in which the fashion industry can and is moving toward a zero-carbon emissions future.
The working group leaders discussed the accomplishments since the charter’s debut during COP 24. Stefan Seidel, Head of Corporate Sustainability at PUMA and chair of the Charter Steering Committee, explained that there are 30 different Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) set as metrics to determine a company's success in their efforts to becoming carbon neutral. These goals are determined by the specialized working groups: the Decarbonization pathway and GHG emission reductions, Raw materials, Manufacturing/Energy, Logistics, Policy engagement, Leveraging existing tools and initiatives, and Promoting broader climate action. Laila Petrie, Vice Chair of the Charter and Co-Chair of the working group on decarbonization, said that 2019 was about data gathering, and now they’re working toward practical solutions. All of the panelists highlighted the need for actions that are in line with the 1.5 degree scenario and a need to confront systemic conditions within the fashion industry that are barriers to this goal.
Photo: Madeline Weir
Karla Magruder, Co-Chair of the Raw Materials working group, shared that her group has suggested brands use low carbon raw materials and recycled materials for production. She expects to see more work done on the measurement of carbon emissions at the raw material level, so partners in the industry know where the most important work is to be done. Jocelyn Wilkinson, Co-Chair of the Manufacturing and Energy Working Group, emphasized that access to clean energy for every level of the supply chain is the most important goal along with reducing energy consumption overall. She called for the pooling of collective knowledge internationally and a supportive environment from governments. Hans Peter Lankes, Vice President of IFC - World Bank Group, explained that there are exciting opportunities for brands which have fully brought into the agenda, who can then influence the rest of the industry and consumers. They will push solutions because of their influence on people's consumption decisions. In addition, sustainability finance will play a roll. For example, the HSBC sustainability linked loan market shows how the financial industry is changing. Lankes expects to see $100 billion in sustainability financing by 2050. He explained that 96% of companies that he works with are feeling the pressure to be more sustainable. Some of the financial tools available are supplying finance, credit facilities, and monetarily incentivizing the right behaviors.
Alice Pilia, the Senior Policy Adviser at Condé Nast International, explained that the media industry is also driven by clothing brands. Thus, if fashion is focused on sustainability, the consumers will be too. Conde Nast's survey of vogue readers showed that 74% are interested in sustainable fashion. Yet, people are still skeptical of sustainable fashion because of recent PR scams. Consumers want brands to be honest and open about their practices.
Some follow up questions that I had for the panelists are: How can manufacturers in developing countries get support in moving toward sustainable production? Is there going to be a suggestion for no new coal plants for the apparel industry? How do new signatories move toward the removal of dirty energy? If the fashion industry is set up to seduce and to encourage constant consumption, how can it be changed to encourage sustainable fashion?
Clothing is a part of our daily lives. It allows us the opportunity to express ourselves, is a symbol of status, and is something most cultures have deemed absolutely necessary. As Martin Frick, Senior Director Policy and Coordination UN Climate Change explained during the COP 25 panel, “Brands are more trusted than politicians.” The High-Level Champion of COP 25, Gonzalo Muñoz from Chile, said that “People are much more motivated by fashion than the environment.” He also said that, “On average people wear a piece of clothing five times per year.” A huge part of the issue is a much-needed paradigm shift of desire and consumption. The UN Charter for Climate Action is working to lessen the fashion industry’s impact on climate change with their goal to reduce overall emissions of the industry by 30% for the overall supply chain by 2030.
Find more information on the current signatories and access an informative video.